Collines de L'If, 2017 (second wine)
6 x 75cl (8 cases) - £142 IB
Collines de L'If, 2018 (second wine)
6 x 75cl (13 cases) - £140 IB
L'If, 2011
6 x 75cl (5 cases) - £450 IB
17 points - Julia Harding MW (JancisRobinson.com)
Drink 2017 – 2025
This is the first vintage of Jacques Thienpont's new wine, over the border in St-Émilion. Eight hectares of 30-year-old vines, harvested three weeks later than at Le Pin. 80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc. Spicy, ripe and plummy on the nose. Overall fragrant and lively. Dry, firm but seemingly gentle tannins. (JH) (Tasted 2012)
L'If, 2012
6 x 75cl (3 cases) - £600 IB
91 points - Neal Martin (Wine Advocate)
Drink 2019 - 2038
A broody, introspective bouquet that needs encouragement from the glass. Although it is tightly coiled, it feels well defined and the oak is nicely embedded into the fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy dark plum and blackberry fruit laced with graphite and tobacco. Masculine compared to its peers, this is another wine that will require long-term ageing. Tasted Jan 2016.
L'If, 2013
6 x 75cl (6 cases) - £460 IB
L'If, 2014
6 x 75cl (10 cases) - £565 IB
94 points - Antonio Galloni (Vinous.com)
Drink 2020 - 2034
A rush of dark cherry jam, chocolate and sweet spice hits the palate. Ripe and unctuous to the core, the 2014 possesses an almost extreme level of concentration for the vintage. There is just enough Cabernet Franc in the blend to add a touch of aromatic lift and structure. At times, the alcohol peeks out a bit. This is an especially opulent style. The blend is 91 % Merlot and 9 % Cabernet Franc. (Tasted 2017)
L'If, 2016
6 x 75cl (1 case) - £850 IB
94 points - Antonio Galloni (Vinous.com)
Drink 2022 - 2042
The 2016 L’If offers blackberry, cedar and mint aromas on a nose that needs time to coalesce, but eventually reveals harmony and focus. The new oak is very well assimilated. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, and pliant in the mouth, delivering gentle grip toward the creamy-textured finish. This is an extremely impressive wine from l’équipe Le Pin. (Tasted 2020)
L'If, 2017
6 x 75cl (1 case) - £850 IB
96 points - Antonio Galloni (Vinous.com)
Drink 2025 - 2047
The 2017 L'If is fabulous. Rich and dense in the glass, the 2017 possesses off-the-charts intensity and vertical explosiveness. Black cherry, chocolate, licorice, smoke and dried flowers infuse the 2017 with tremendous complexity as well as nuance. The tannins are pretty much buried by the sheer depth of the fruit, while bright floral and spice notes punctuate the super-expressive finish. (Tasted December 2020)
L'If, 2020
6x75cl (4 cases) - £800 IB (pre arrival 2023)
95-97 points - Antonio Galloni (Vinous.com)
Drink 2030 - 2055
The 2020 L'If is shaping up to be a jewel of a wine. In most vintages so far, L'If has been a dense, textured Saint-Émilion. In 2020, all of that energy seems directed toward extreme verticality rather than heft. I have to say, it’s a style I like a lot. Bright acids and persistent tannins drive a core of red/purplish fruit, while floral, spice and mineral-drenched accents linger. The 2020 is a blend of 84% Merlot and 16% Cabernet Franc, picked on 9/16, 9/24 and 9/26 for the Merlot and 10/1 for the Franc. This is the first vintage that includes fruit from a new parcel in the Saint-Étienne-de-Lisse district. A statuesque, captivating beauty, L'If is loaded with potential. I loved it. (Tasted May 2021)
Buy Now
This is the latest venture of Jacques Thienpont of Château Le Pin in Pomerol. In 2016, he and his sister, Anne De Raeymaeker, acquired what was then called Château Goubau at Gardegan-et-Tourtirac and changed the name to L’Hêtre. What attracted them was the 10ha vineyard on a limestone plateau.
The project has since evolved, with the acquisition of neighbouring land and other parcels at St-Genès-de-Castillon. The vineyard has been well maintained and was already certified organic under the previous ownership.
The philosophy remains the same, with gentle extraction and attention given to barrel selection. Jacques’ nephew Maxime Thienpont, who grew up at Château Labégorce-Zédé in Margaux, now manages the property.
It’s early days yet, but this is one to keep an eye on. There are plans for a new cellar and there’s no disputing the quality of the terroir or the pedigree of the ownership and management.
La Raison d'Hetre 2017 (second wine)
12 x 75cl (10 cases) - £114 IB
L'Hetre 2017
6 x 75cl (30 cases) - £95 IB
L'Hetre 2018
6 x 75cl (41 cases) - £95 IB
L'Hetre, 2019
1 x 6L Imperiale (6 cases) - £195 IB
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Puygueraud - Côtes de Francs
Château Puygueraud is a Bordeaux estate in the small Côtes de Bordeaux Francs appellation and is certainly one to watch out for!
The property was bought by George Thienpont in 1946 and he subsequently replanted it with vines in 1979. The estate covers 35 hectares (86 acres) at 384 feet above sea level – one of the highest elevations on the Right Bank of Bordeaux. In 2005 all of its Cabernet Sauvignon was replaced with Cabernet Franc which now takes up a quarter of the vineyard, the majority of which is given to Merlot.
Puygueraud, Halves, 2018
24x37.5cl (3 cases) - £129 IB
Puygueraud, 2014
12 x 75cl (4 cases) - £95 IB
Puygueraud, 2016
12 x 75cl (3 cases) - £150 IB
Puygueraud, 2017
12 x 75cl (8 cases) - £110 IB
Puygueraud, 2018
12 x 75cl (58 cases) - £117 IB
Puygueraud, Magnum, 2017
6 x 1.5L (2 cases) - £120 IB
Puygueraud, Magnum, 2018
6 x 1.5L (7 cases) - £127 IB
Puygueraud, Imperiale, 2017
1 x 6L (10 cases) - £120 IB
Puygueraud, Imperiale, 2018
1 x 6L (14 cases) - £150 IB
Puygueraud, Salmanazar, 2018
1 x 9L (1 cases) - £245 IB
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Jacques Thienpont was working with his uncle Gérard in the family business in Belgium when he heard about a tiny parcel of vineyard next to Vieux Château Certan. His uncle Léon knew how good the terroir was and tried to persuade the family to buy the vineyard and add it to Certan. They deemed the one million French francs too expensive. Jacques realised that it was an opportunity to make his own wine and Le Pin’s tiny size was manageable for him alone.
Le Pin had existed as a vineyard for some time but the previous owner, Madame Laubie had a contract with a winemaker in Lalande-de-Pomerol to make the wine. When Jacques came to make his first vintage just after the purchase, he found the cellars in a pitiful state. He had just enough money to buy one stainless steel vat and the necessary amount of French oak barrels but his first vintage was as artisanal as one can imagine. By accident Jacques started the trend for doing the secondary malolactic fermentation in barrels, since he had nowhere else to run off his wine.
Gradually he brought the vineyard up to a good quality level, working closely with his cousin Alexandre at Vieux Château Certan. He replanted a significant part of the land with new Merlot clones and re-trellised the vines. In 1984, the wine was just becoming appreciated and he could afford to buy an adjacent plot of 30 ares – the former vegetable garden of a local widow. A few years later, the Domaine de la Vielle Ecole came up for sale, and he seized the opportunity to add another 60 ares to the estate.
Today, Le Pin is 2.7 hectares although continued replanting means that only 80% of the vineyard is in operation at the moment. Visitors to Le Pin are always amazed at its size and the simplicity of the winemaking. Jacques makes the wine as he did from the beginning; he learnt the art from his uncle Léon and by following courses at Bordeaux’s Institute of Oenology. The vineyard is managed on the same principles as Vieux Château Certan – severe pruning, minimum spraying - no fertilisers, no pesticides and no weed killers - green harvest and leaf stripping before harvest.
The latest development in the history of the Le Pin is a new winery, designed by Belgian architect Paul Robbrecht and inaugurated in September 2011 for the harvest. The new winery introduces a new standard of excellence at Le Pin: better hygiene, better temperature control, movement by gravity, and certainly more precision in the winemaking and parcel selection. The grapes are hand harvested and sorted in three different steps before being transported to seven small stainless steel conical vats varying from 16 to 45 hectolitres in size. Jacques has always worked every part of the winemaking himself and sees no reason to change this hands-on approach. The wines are fermented in stainless steel at warm temperatures and then after a two week maceration, transferred into new oak barrels (Seguin Moreau and Taransaud) for the malolactic fermentation and ageing. After 18 months, the wine is clarified with egg whites and bottled without filtration.
So what makes Le Pin so magical? Although it may seem like a Bordeaux cliché, it really is the terroir in the vineyard that counts. Lying in the centre of the Pomerol plateau, the vineyard, with its perfect southern exposure to the sun, slopes down to a small ditch that divides the estate. The topsoil contains a high amount of ancient pebbles that are rare in the mainly clay soils here. Underneath is a complex layer of ferruginous limestone, gravel and sand. The Merlot ripens early here and produces an exotic coffee and blackcurrant fruit which is evident as the first juice is tasted. The whole operation is reminiscent of a cellar in the Côtes de Nuits, which is perhaps one of the reasons that Le Pin was dubbed “The Domaine de La Romanée Conti of Bordeaux” by Jacques Luxey in 1983.
The glamorous image of Le Pin abroad lies in contrast to the winery and the winemaker. Jacques is a soft spoken, down to earth Belgian who divides his time between the family home, Hof te Cattebeke, in Etikhove and Pomerol. When he is not making, tasting or selling wine, he is to be found shooting, playing with his two young sons or overseeing one of his many renovation projects. Talk of the stratospheric prices that Le Pin now fetches once it leaves the cellar door and the current debate about “garage wines” bemuses Jacques. He has been making Le Pin for over thirty years and has watched the wine’s meteoric rise with incredulity. “Pour vue que ça dure” (Let’s hope it lasts) he says with a grin. Of course Le Pin, which produces only 5,000-6,000 bottles a year is very rare. However, it is rather the exotic richness and supple, velvety tannins which have won admirers throughout the world. The Thienpont winemaking traditions and the Flemish simplicity of life are well installed at Le Pin.
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