2013 - Barolo Monprivato, Giuseppe Mascarello e Figlio

The 2013 Barolo Monprivato is perplexing. Light in color, intensity and structure, the 2013 offers only modest depth, even by the standards of this typically restrained Barolo. The orange peel, rosewater, rhubarb and cranberry flavors are tart and washed out. There is lovely persistence and a touch of grip on the finish, but that's about it. Few growers have done more for the image of Piedmont and Barolo over the last several decades than Mauro Mascarello. The estate has recently replanted major sections of their vineyards, including Monprivato. Perhaps there was something going on in the fields that has affected the quality of these wines of late. It's hard to say. But there is simply no getting around the simple fact that this is the fifth year in a row Mascarello has underperformed.