2003 - Leoville Poyferre, Saint-Julien

In 1855, the estate was still owned by Baron Jean-Marie de Poyferré, who married Jeanne de Las Cases and gave the estate its name. It would stay in their family until 1865. Captures the generosity and spice of 2003, and still going strong at 22 years old, against all odds at the time of this hot, dry harvest. Expect sandalwood, campfire smoke, cedar and black pepper alongside sweet black cherry flesh and supple tannic grip. 80% new oak, at a great moment to drink.

The 2003 Leoville Poyferre is medium garnet with a touch of brick. It sashays out of the glass with a beautiful nose of kirsch, raspberry pie, Black Forest cake, and chocolate box plus hints of wilted rose petals, garrigue, fertile loam, and cigar box. Medium to full-bodied, firm, chewy, and savory in the mouth, it has a long, earth-laced finish.

The 2003 Léoville-Poyferré has always been one of this infamous vintage’s success stories. Perhaps in recent years it has lost some of its vigour on the nose with black plum, brown spices, leather and that light Bovril aroma, but there is better delineation than many others. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and quite savoury. It is beginning to show some dryness and little monotony on the finish. I wonder whether its best days are behind it? Still a very decent showing however. Tasted at the Léoville-Poyferré vertical at the château with Sara Lecompte Cuvelier..