1996 - Cos d'Estournel, Saint-Estephe

Tasted for a Decanter masterclass back in May, this is yet another wine this year that proves 1996 Médocs are totally on their game, and should not be ignored. For me this is one of the all-time best vintages of Cos, combining the gourmet truffle and cocoa bean welcome that this estate is known for with the powerful tannic frame of St Estephe, and ripe but still juicy cassis fruits. So much personality and pleasure on offer here. 65% new oak.

The 1996 Cos d’Estournel has a fragrant, Pauillac-tinged bouquet with the melted tar and graphite leitmotifs that I remarked upon in previous encounters. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy-textured tannin. I feel that the 1996 shows a tad more maturity than a few months ago, with undergrowth and peat-like notes surfacing with aeration and then a dash of white pepper streaking across the finish. However, it evinces fine persistency and embraces the classic tropes of the 1996 vintages. Though not a top tier Cos d’Estournel, it remains an excellent Saint-Estèphe. Tasted at the Cos d’Estournel vertical at the property.