2018 - Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Kabinett, Vollenweider

Despite the manifest challenges that 2018 presented to picking at low must weight, Vollenweider didn’t just render a highly successful Kabinett, he produced eight fuders’ worth of it, whereas most often there are five. Yeasty and matchstick notes on the nose slightly shroud scents of pear, apricot, lime, narcissus and peony. This will be a gorgeous bouquet once the reductive and fermentative notes are shed, as will inevitably happen. The palate is buoyant and creamy, yet insistently juicy as well as shot through with musky inner-mouth floral perfume. The textural creaminess and midpalate impression of relatively low acidity render this Kabinett’s animating and infectiously juicy finish – transparent to alkaline and stony nuances – a very pleasant surprise.