2015 - Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Madonna Piano, Valdicava

There’s a mentholated freshness to the 2015 Madonna del Piano Riserva which draws you in, as a seductive display of crushed black cherries, cinnamon, sage and sweet white smoke holds your attention firm. It’s silky in feel yet far more lifted than expected, with wave after wave of tart wild berries and savory spices which drench the palate in concentrated fruit, as if you can feel the skins, pips and all. Just when you think that the 2015 will release you from its structured clenches, its coating of grippy tannins comes forward, and it remains throughout the tension-filled and purple-tinged finale. This will require many years of cellaring to reveal its charms, coming across as far more structured than most other Brunello Riservas from the vintage; yet there’s plenty of fruit to keep pace throughout the wine's evolution.