2018 - Cos d'Estournel, Saint-Estephe

The 2018 Cos d’Estournel has a deep garnet-purple color. It gives up notes of vanilla, dark chocolate, and licorice, over a core of blackcurrant cordial, stewed plums, and boysenberries. Medium to full-bodied, the palate is chock-full of black fruit preserves, with a rock-solid, grainy texture and a very long, spicy finish.

Just over the border from Pauillac into St Estèphe, Michel Reybier's Cos d'Estournel is for me the wine of the 2018 vintage in St Estèphe. Perhaps because it often showcases turmeric, cinammon and saffron spices, finding them in 2018 feels in keeping with the signature flavours of the property rather than being overly marked by vintage conditions. There is complexity and power here also damson, fig, cassis and blackberry fruits, alongside muscular tannins. Fresh acidities through the finish keep a sense of momentum and this is powerful with ambition, and it carries it off perfectly. 65% of production went into the grand vin. 50% new oak (a little lower than the usual 60%).

The 2018 Cos d’Estournel showed a lot of promise when I tasted it from barrel. Now in bottle and given a 2–3-hour decant, it has a gorgeous and disarmingly pure bouquet, slightly high-toned with iodine scents infusing the lush blackberry and boysenberry scents. The oak is seamlessly integrated. The palate is fresh and crisp on the entry, delivering silky-smooth tannins, perfect acidity and a sense of harmony than is very persuasive. I cannot recall a Cos d’Estournel in recent years with such fine tannins. It gently fans out toward the finish while retaining superb precision, completing what is a beautifully crafted Cos d’Estournel with a long future ahead.