1988 - Leoville Las Cases, Saint-Julien

Great to see how Las Cases has survived from one of the good-but-not-great vintages of the 1980s. This was opened just before tasting, and needs time to uncurl. Opens up to show earthy, brambled notes of blackberry, tomato leaf, undergrowth, raspberry, saffron and crushed mint leaf. So much complexity and layers of flavor, perfectly read to drink. Harvest October 3 to 16, 50% new oak. Michel Delon owner.

The 1988 Léoville Las-Cases is a blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot (this bottled had been re-corked at the property in 2014). This was a late harvest that began on 4 October and lasted for 12 days. This seems to have matured on the nose since I last tasted it in 2011, more secondary aromas - undergrowth, mushroom and hickory infusing the black fruit. It feels a little rustic now. The palate is medium-bodied with soft tannin, a little dry in the mouth, the fruit having ebbed away in the last few years. I have fonder memories of this in the 1990s and 2000s. There is still a presence here but it feels as if it is drying out on the finish. I felt that this Second Growth was a little inconsistent around this era, especially compared to nowadays. Tasted at the château.