2003 - Leoville Las Cases, Saint-Julien

I am loving classified Pauillac and St Julien from this vintage right now, and Las Cases doesn't disappoint. Its texture is all satin and velvet, with waves of spiced turmeric and cloves, brambled blackcurrant, blueberry, pomegranate, passion fruit, liqourice and crushed rock, with orange rind freshness that gives a kick and a shiver of electricity. Grip and freshness, still full of life. A record temperature of 48C clocked in at the estate's weather station during the baking summer of 2003, with over 50 days when it never dropped below 30C even during the night. 50% new oak, 3.62ph, harvest September 11 to 26, Jean-Hubert Delon owner.

The 2003 Léoville Las-Cases, a year when they green harvested, has an enticing bouquet with red fruit, orange rind, tobacco and loamy scents, gaining confidence with aeration (decanting really benefits this wine). The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, quite strict for a 2003, but with adequate freshness and a grippy, cigar box-infused and persistent finish. This is an impressive showing, and at 20 years, it will give another 20 years of drinking pleasure, unlike many of its peers. Tasted at the château.