2003 - Chambertin Grand Cru, Bernard Dugat-Py

(from 80-year-old vines; Dugat vinified whole clusters and did the punchdowns by hand) Deep ruby-red. Like a liqueur of griotte cherry on the nose, with notes of violet and eucalyptus; this is different from every other 2003 at this address. Large-scaled, rich and velvety but not especially sweet. Shows sound acidity and well-distributed tannins, with the chocolatey oak perfectly integrated with the wine's fruit. Offers great finesse and subtle persistence, with the minerality contributing to the wine's precision and thrust. Dugat says this parcel is planted at a very dense 14,000 vines to the hectare.